If you haven’t heard, having a solid wash day routine is essential to promote a healthy moisture balance, ensure length retention, and minimize breakage and shedding.
Contrary to popular belief, our wash day routine doesn’t have to take up our entire Sunday.
If we plan accordingly, our wash day routine can be quick, easy and actually enjoyable.
However, our natural hair wash day needs to be effective. Rushing through the wash day process or using the wrong products can set us up for failure throughout our entire journey.
Remember: moisture starts with wash day. A poorly planned wash day routine can lead to unhealthy hair. But a solid wash day routine will ensure your scalp is clean, your strands are moisturized and you get optimal curls and coils throughout the week.
Ready to get your wash day routine on lock? Let’s go!
Wash Day Routine 101
Before we get into the wash day routine, keep in mind that you should have a thorough understanding of your natural hair. In particular you should know (not an exhaustive list):
- Your natural hair type (Type 2-4),
- Your porosity (either low porosity natural hair or high porosity natural hair),
The above knowledge will help inform you on product selection and how often you should be washing your hair. In general, Type 4s should use shampoo biweekly while Type 2 and 3 should shampoo weekly.
Your porosity is arguably the most important factor when implementing your wash day routine. Simply put, your porosity determines how your hair responds to moisture and products.
Natural Hair Porosity
Natural hair porosity is the ability of your hair to absorb water and/products.
Low porosity natural hair has a low absorption rate, because the cuticles are stubbornly closed. It is difficult for this hair porosity to absorb moisture.
High porosity natural hair has a high absorption rate, because the cuticles are always open. It is difficult for this hair porosity to retain moisture.
We’ll discuss how to leverage your porosity at each step of your wash day, but be sure to read up on your porosity to learn more about how you can maximize your moisture level.
Now, here is everything you need to know for a successful wash day:
Pre-poo is the act of applying a treatment prior to shampooing, usually in the form of an oil or conditioner.
This step is essential for minimizing breakage. As shampoo can be quite stripping, applying a pre-poo will act as a barrier to protect your hair’s natural moisture levels.
Some of the best oils for natural hair can be used as a pre-poo, such as olive oil and avocado oil. Coconut oil is a great pre-poo for high porosity naturals as it will protect your hair from hygral fatigue. However coconut oil tends to dry out low porosity hair, so be mindful of this.
To do a pre-poo, section your hair and apply a generous amount of the oil into your strands, focusing on your ends and scalp. For added benefit, use water and your fave conditioner to detangle your hair – this will cut your wash day in half!
2. Let The Water Fall
When you step into the shower, do not immediately shampoo.
Natural hair LOVES water. Let your curls drink up the water for about 3-5 minutes prior to starting your routine. Shampoo is activated on wet hair, so make sure every square inch of your head is drenched before starting your wash day.
3. Shampoo (Your Scalp)
Remember when we cancelled shampoo from the natural hair community and we only co-washed?
Just like other hair types, natural hair accumulates buildup, dirt and grime. To be clear: dirty hair is not healthy hair.
You should aim to wash your hair weekly, especially those with looser curl textures, who may even have to shampoo 2-3 times a week. Type 4 naturals can get away with washing their hair biweekly, with a co-wash in between.
Now, not all shampoos are made the same. The best shampoos for natural hair are sulfate-free (especially lauryl sulfate free, which is a very drying detergent) and contain moisturizing ingredients to offset the stripping power of the detergent. Opt for these shampoos to keep your moisture levels balanced.
Mielle Pomegranate & Honey Shampoo
Best for TYPE 4
This shampoo is one of the most moisturizing shampoos on the market. Key ingredients such as honey and panthenol reduce friction between hair strands, providing additional slip and promoting moisture retention throughout the shampoo process. A must try for Type 4 naturals!
TGIN Moisture Rich Sulfate Free Shampoo
Best for TYPE 4
Best suited for coilier textures, this shampoo will ensure no product is left behind. Best of all, most of the hydrating ingredients (such as amla oil extract and sugar cane), are right up front in the ingredient list, meaning your hair won’t feel stripped after using it.
Shea Moisture Bamboo Charcoal Deep Cleansing Shampoo
Best for TYPE 2-3b
This is a great shampoo if you have low porosity natural hair, but also great if you have scalp issues such as flakiness, dryness/oiliness, or itchiness. It contains tea tree and willow bark extract, which will calm the scalp and assist with skin turnover, which is essential if dealing with any of the above scalp issues.
Section your hair and shampoo each section, focusing your energy at the scalp. When you’ve covered your whole scalp, let the water (and suds) run flow down your strands.
Your hair will still be clean without that dry, squeaky clean feeling. And the pre-poo you added before will be an extra layer of protection.
4. Condition and Detangle
If you shampooed, you need to follow up with conditioner WITH slip. This is critical for detangling!
Work a generous size amount of conditioner into your ends and strands to start. Coilier textures will find that they use a lot of conditioner during each wash day. To minimize this, make sure your hair is drenched before adding the conditioner to mobilize the product and provide more slip.
Looser curls who experience weighed down curls can skip directly to deep conditioning.
In sections, use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers to detangle. If you have fine strands, opt for finger detangling to reduce unnecessary breakage.
Once you’re done, wash out the conditioner with lukewarm water!
5. Deep Condition and Chill
If you take anything from this post: NEVER WASH YOUR HAIR IF YOU DON’T HAVE TIMETO DEEP CONDITION.
Curls are inherently dry. The sebum, or scalp oils, can’t reach the length of our strands because of how twisty our curls are. We need to supply our ends and strands with the moisture that it needs to stay moisturized and retain length.
Deep conditioning will moisturize and strengthen your hair (thus encouraging length), but only if you do it consistently.
Not all deep conditioners are made the same. Opt for masques that contain moisturizing ingredients such as honey, panthenol, and various oils and butters. Avoid using mineral oil or petroleum-based deep conditioners as they leave a film over the hair and give a fake appearance of softness.
Camille Rose Naturals Algae Renew Deep Conditioner
Best for TYPE 4, low porosity
A cult favourite deep conditioner, This deep conditioner contains essential plant-based oils and butters loved by all naturals: manuka honey, mango butter and aloe vera, and also includes innovative ingredients such as hemp seed oil and blue-green algae. And it smells like mint chocolate chip!
TGIN Honey Miracle Hair Mask
Best for TYPE 4, all porosities
One of the most superior ingredient list of any deep conditioner on the market. Honey is the SECOND ingredient, meaning that you’ll truly feel the softening effects from the honey after rinsing. Jojoba oil and aloe vera, the third and fourth ingredients respectively, are incredibly beneficial for moisturizing natural hair. A must have for coilier textures!
Mielle Organics Rosemary Mint Hair Masque
Best for TYPE 3-4, high porosity, fine strands
This nutrient-rich formula includes fortifying ingredients such as rosemary, biotin and henna, as well as enriching oils such as babassu, castor and jojoba oil. A great deep conditioner to keep fine hair strands and/or high porosity hair nice and strong.
Shea Moisture Deep Treatment Masque
Best for TYPE 2-3b
The OG of deep conditioners. It contains deep sea kelp and shea butter to provide deep hydration right into the hair shaft. This mask is great for looser curl patterns. For best results, use in the shower after shampooing (in replace of a regular conditioner) for 15 minutes.
Apply a generous amount to your hair in sections, focusing on the ends. Spritz some water on your hair (if its dried), and slap on a plastic cap. Leave it for 30 mins. To avoid hygral fatigue, do not deep condition overnight or for more than an hour;
For low porosity natural hair, use a hair steamer or hot head to open up those stubborn cuticles. After the allotted time, wash it off with cold water.
Hot Head Thermal Cap
Best for TYPE 3c-4, low porosity
This is a must have tool for natural hair, especially for low porosity naturals. Deep conditioning as a low porosity natural is fruitless if you’re not lifting your cuticles to let the product in. And the heat from this product will do just that! A much more effective deep conditioning strategy than the baggy method, and best of all: it’s much more affordable than a steamer.
Now, after all that hard work putting together your wash day routine, using expensive products, de-tangling and deep conditioning, you want to make sure you trap all that moisture in.
For this step, you need a water-based leave-in conditioner and a secondary styler (either a gel, oil or cream styler). Some naturals prefer using the LCO or LOC method, which is okay also! The point here is to experiment with product application to see what works for your hair.
But across the board, you should use a water-based leave-in on damp hair to reduce friction between your coils, thus reducing the likelihood of split ends, single-strand and fairy knots.
Opt for leave-ins that contain water as the first ingredient and have enough slip to keep your coils from tangling up together,
TGIN Butter Cream Daily Moisturizer
Best for TYPE 4, all porosities
No other moisturizer exists on the market quite like this one – not only does it have amazing slip, but it’s rich formula with shea butter and vitamin E will help flatten your cuticles and promote hydration all week long.
Camille Rose Curl Love Moisture Milk
Best for TYPE 3 – 4, low porosity
This buttery, soft leave-in contains incredibly moisturizing ingredients such as avocado oil, rice oil and aloe vera (aka the moisture G.O.A.T.)! Plays well with creams and gels for defined twist-outs and good for all porosity types, especially low porosity naturals.
Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Leave-in Conditioner
Best for TYPE 2-3c, high porosity
A fan favourite amongst high porosity and protein-loving naturals. The proteins in this formulation are small enough to fit into your cuticles, reducing frizz and increasing moisture absorption. A win-win!
Earthtones Naturals Curl Enhancing Jelly
Best for TYPE 3c-4
A Canadian-based brand, Earthtones Naturals focuses on holistic, natural ingredients – and this gel is no exception. Its formulated with some ingredients such as aloe leaf juice, panthenol and sea kelp!
In addition to the above, keep the following in mind:
- Get a trim! Starting a hair regimen on non-split ends will ensure faster results. Trim as much as you are comfortable with. This is imperative before you create a wash day routine for natural hair.
- Protective style to see fast growth.
- Use as many organic products as possible.
- Know what products work well for the seasons. Use these products when you make your wash day routine for natural hair. Generally speaking, use emollients in the spring/summer, when there is more moisture in the air. Examples include honey and glycerin. The emollients in your products will pull the moisture from the air into your curls. In the winter, it’s the opposite!
The Bottom Line
At the end of the day, there’s nothing more important to a natural than moisturized coils. And moisture starts with your wash day routine!