How To Create A Natural Hair Regimen For Healthy Hair in 2022 (With 7 Actionable Tips)

Ready to create your very own, personalized natural hair regimen for healthy, hydrated coils? Looking for actionable natural hair tips for beginners? You’ve come to the right place!

Natural hair 101 is more than just learning about great products. It’s about unlearning the negative and dangerous narratives we’ve been unconsciously fed our entire lives, and actively unsubscribing from them. Then, it’s about creating a simple, easy natural hair routine that is consistent and easy to follow.

The Basic Building Blocks of a Solid Natural Hair Regimen

In a nutshell, here’s a simple skeleton of what your natural hair regimen should look like:

• Cleansing – using a clarifying or moisturizing shampoo to remove buildup, dirt and grime
• Conditioning and treating – re-supplying the hair with conditioners to flatten the cuticle and prime the hair for moisture
• Moisturizing – using water, nature’s true moisturizer!
• Styling – applying leave-in products to define your coils and increase manegeability
• Setting – using ambient heat to lock in moisture until the next wash day

If you nail the above steps, you’ll see healthier and happier natural hair. The key is finding products that fit into this structure.

Before we break down these steps, there are a few things you should know before building and implementing this routine.

Unconscious Biases To Ditch About Being Natural

1) Curl Type

The reality is this: we’ve been conditioned to view black features as unattractive.

A direct product of colonialization and white supremacy is the stigmatization of blackness.

According to this ideology, the closer we can get to whiteness, the closer we are perceived as “attractive”, “professional” and overall “acceptable”.

This encompasses what we refer to as “a beauty standard”.

In the beauty-sphere, coily, kinky hair is genetically associated with blackness, therefore less associated with whiteness.

In other words, the coilier your hair, the less you are able to meet this aforementioned beauty standard.

This agenda is further supported by media and what is marketed to as the ideal beauty. Growing up, many of us never saw black women in all their natural hair glory on TV.

The few on-screen naturals were unfortunately often played similar character archetypes – they were either the best friend, the “fat” friend, or worse, the villain.

But never the main character.

This sends a subliminal, yet intentional, message to young black people. For most of us, we’ve grown to unconsciously detest our black hair because we’ve never seen it as beautiful.

All that to say, in order to accept and cherish our hair in all its glory, we need to unlearn some of the lies we’ve been unconsciously fed.

As an example, Type 4 natural hair isn’t “hard” or “untameable”. In fact, Type 4 natural hair is the most fragile of all the curl types due to its tight curl pattern!

Your new natural hair 101 affirmation: all natural hair types are valid, are beautiful, and deserve equal representation. Period!

2) Comparing Your Hair Journey

Comparison is the thief of joy, sis!

With the rise of social media, we’re exposed to a new method of white advertising. It’s no secret that algorithms (and users) favour women who are able to meet Eurocentric beauty standards.

Let’s be clear: if you’re following anybody who makes you question yourself, it’s time to hit that unfollow button!

There is nothing worse than comparing your journey with someone else’s. Not only does this rob you of this beautiful natural hair journey, it eats away at your self-esteem. Ain’t nobody got time for that!

3) Expecting Quick Results

Millennials, Gen-Z and late Gen-Y are referred to as the “microwave generation”.

We have information available to us at the tip of your fingers. In under 3 seconds, you have access to information with a quick Google search and minimal effort.

And while this may be one of the best inventions of our time, it’s also re-wired our brain’s reward centres. Now, we’re looking for the same quick results in all aspects of our lives.

And this is just not realistic.

Anything worth having is worth working towards. You can’t expect to wake up on Day 1 of your natural hair journey and expect long, healthy hair. Natural hair is a journey, not a race.

Which brings us to…

4) Not Having To Put In The Work

Your natural hair journey will be an exciting and interesting journey of self-discovery.

But there is an associated learning curve when going natural.

Learning anything new will be challenging first, especially in a relatively new niche of beauty such as natural hair.

At first, you may be performing a very prescribed and mundane routine – deep conditioning on Sundays, re-moisturizing on Wednesdays, protective styling once a month.

In time, you’ll refine the skill of listening to your curls. With patience, you’ll know what products work best for your hair and what styles you prefer.

Again, all of this knowledge takes time to acquire!

How To Transition to Natural Hair

We’re not going to sugar coat it: learning how to transition to natural hair is not easy.

There’s growing pains to learning new things, and this is true for transitioning to natural hair.

At some points during your journey, you will feel tempted to drop the deep conditioner in favour for the relaxer or flat iron.

Don’t beat yourself up over it: that’s normal!

But you need to stay motivated. Consistency is the name of the game.

I get it, you want long, healthy natural hair overnight. Same here, sister.

But to make this journey more manageable and exciting, patience is key. This is an exciting time for you to learn a new, unexplored part of yourself. Enjoy the process!

Learning how to transition to natural hair, and how to maintain healthy hair, is worth the wait.

The Big Chop

The big chop is well-known (and well-feared) in the natural hair community.

By definition, it’s when you cut off all of the damaged hair and only leave the unrelaxed, healthy hair at the roots.

This is the boldest way to start your new journey, but it is the most effective.

Whether you are dealing with natural hair heat damage or relaxed hair, a big chop ensures that you are giving your new growth ample opportunity to thrive. Dead hair will continuously split up the hair shaft, thus damaging new growth.

But the big chop is extreme, and we get that. So the next best thing you could so: an invisible trim.

An invisible trim means dusting off just a few cm from your ends (rather than inches) every 4-6 weeks. This will keep your length while getting rid of split ends.

The Two Cornerstones of Natural Hair for Beginners

To begin your new journey, there is one fundamental thing you must focus on.

And that’s your protein-moisture balance for natural hair.

If you focus your attention on these two things, everything else will fall in line.

Moisture

Moisture is the most important cornerstone of natural hair for beginners and veterans alike! Aligning your actions to emphasis moisture is the first step in keeping your protein-moisture balance for natural hair level.

Every natural experiences dryness, regardless of hair type. If you chronically experience dry natural hair, let me in on a secret: we all do.

Our scalp, much like the skin on our body, produces natural oils called sebum. Sebum is our body’s way of moisturizing itself.

In an ideal world, the sebum from our scalp is supposed to moisturize our hair via gravity, from the top of our head to the ends of our hair.

But because of the angularity of our curls and kinks, the sebum cannot travel down our hair shaft.

So it gets trapped within the bends of our curls at the roots, and can’t make it down to our ends.

This is the main reason why natural hair is chronically dry.

To combat this, we need to manually add moisture to our hair via water and products.

But in many cases, naturals still experience dryness, even after a thorough deep conditioning session. The reason for this is:

Porosity

The best way to moisturize your natural hair is leveraging your hair’s porosity.

The gag is: once you know your porosity, you’ll never experience dryness again.

The root word of porosity is “pores”, which by definition are “openings that allow for the passage of liquid”.

In the world of hair, these pores are referring to our hair’s cuticles. Porosity measures the ability of your hair to absorb and retain moisture through these cuticles.

There are two main types of porosity:

• Low porosity natural hair has a low absorption rate, because the cuticles are stubbornly closed. It is difficult for this hair porosity to absorb moisture, so products just sit atop the hair.

• High porosity natural hair has a high absorption rate, because the cuticles are always open. It is difficult for this hair porosity to retain moisture, thus the products eventually evaporate away.

Each porosity has its benefits and drawbacks, but there are techniques we can employ to make our porosity work with us, not against us.

Rather than focusing our attention on our curl type, investing in your porosity will ensure your hair is moisturized and thriving – thus growing!

Check out our porosity portal, where we disseminate the latest and greatest porosity tips for your curls.

Protein

The next part of the protein-moisture balance for natural hair is: levelling your hair’s protein levels.

Our hair is made out of a protein called keratin, a heavily-bonded protein that keeps our curls bouncy and elastic. It’s also abundant in other areas of our bodies such as our skin and nails.

Keratin is rich in a particular kind of amino acid called cysteine, which is made up of tiny sulfur bonds in the cortex (the layer right underneath the cuticle).

These sulfur bonds are very strong, and contribute to the inherent strength and impermeability of our beautiful hair.

To be clear: these sulfur bonds are CRITICAL to your hair health – they’re the building blocks of healthy, strong hair. If they weaken, you’ll notice drier, more brittle and overall lifeless natural hair.

Thus, it’s imperative we keep these bonds strong and secure by handling our curls with care, eating right, and using the right protein treatments.

FYI – if you’re transitioning to natural hair or dealing with natural hair heat damage, your curls are severely lacking in protein.

We’ll get into the best products you should consider for both moisture and protein below.

The Real Tea on Natural Hair Products

Contrary to popular belief, you don’t need to be a product junkie to have healthy natural hair.

On your new journey, you may feel anxious and excited to try out new products. And there a lot to choose from!

There’s nothing wrong with experimenting with products, but remember: having too many products can counteract your journey. How will you know what’s working if you have a million different products in rotation?

The easiest thing you can do for yourself during the beginning of your journey is to keep it simple.

The simpler your routine, the easier it is to stay consistent and stick with it.

To start, here’s a basic skeleton of the products you should have in your routine.

Step 1: Shampoo

A critical step for all naturals – simply co-washing (using only conditioner) is not enough!

The science is clear: shampooing natural hair is an absolute non-negotiable if you want to have healthy, hydrated and happy natural hair.

Dirty hair does not mean hair growth. This is a myth. Leaving your curls and coils unwashed for longer than 14 days can result in negative adverse issues such as follicle irritation, scalp inflammation, dermatitis and hair loss.

Yikes!

It’s important to invest in a well-formulated, high-quality shampoo that will keep your hair moisturized while still giving it a good clean. A well-formulated, high-quality shampoo will not make your hair dry.

Instead, your hair should feel soft and conditioned after every shampoo and condition, ready to accept the moisture from your leave-in products and stylers.

There are two types of shampoo every natural should have two shampoos in rotation:

• A moisturizing shampoo (sulfate-free), which are normally gentler for weekly use.
• A clarifying shampoo which are best for monthly deep cleaning, or should be used more frequently if you use heavy oils and butters in your routine

How Often Should You Use Shampoo?

All naturals should aim to wash their hair every 7-10 days, according to natural hair professionals, regardless of curl type or porosity. Any longer than this, you are compromising your scalp’s delicate ecosystem. Remember: there is no substitute for clean, natural hair.

For those who exercise, co-washing in between shampoo days will help keep your scalp and hair clean.

Step 2: Condition

The conditioning stage is where you apply a slippery conditioner to soften the hair, smooth down the hair cuticle and overall improve manageability.

This stage should never be skipped – if you shampoo your hair, you should also condition your hair, as well. This is also the stage where you should detangle your hair. The slip from the conditioner reduces friction between the strands, making detangling a breeze.

Deep conditioners, on the other hand, are different than regular conditioners. Although not as slippery, deep conditioners contain delivery agents that allow the treatment to work at a deeper level than just the cuticle layer.

When choosing a deep conditioner, ask yourself what your specific concerns are. Do you have dry hair? Use a moisture-rich, protein-free deep conditioner.

If you use heat on your hair often and experience breakage or heat damage, incorporate a protein-based treatment with small-sized protein molecules such as amino acids, that will “mimic” your hair’s natural protein stores and improve curl elasticity.

Step 3: Moisturize

“Moisturizing” natural hair is as simple as using water on your hair before applying your products.

Products will not “moisturize” your hair. But water will!

Water is nature’s true hydrator. To truly moisturize natural hair, apply your leave-in products on wet hair.

Step 4: Style

Here comes the fun part – styling!

The products you use at this stage will depend on your style goals. Ask yourself these questions:

• Are you doing a fixed style (wash and go) or flexible style (twist out, braid out)? Fixed styles, that off your natural curl pattern, work best with gels, while flexible styles work best with lighter-weight stylers like mousses or wrap foams.
• Do you have fine, less dense? If yes, use lighter-weight products to encourage volume.
• If you have heat damaged hair, flexible styles that allow your hair to set in a particular set willwork best for you.

To properly style natural hair, apply your styler of choice on damp to wet hair. If you have tangle-prone hair, use a leave-in conditioner underneath.

Step 5: Setting Your Style

Having a hooded dryer for natural hair at home may seem a little extra, but the benefits of investing in a hooded hair dryer cannot be overstated.

Not only does it make your wash day experience more of a self-care experience (and less of a chore), but it will do wonders for the look, feel and overall hydration levels of your natural hair. It will also help your products absorb better, reduce tangles and keep your coils defined AF.

There’s nothing better than having a fully set, highly moisturized hair style that will last until your next wash day.

And the hooded hair dryer promises to do just that!

How To Choose The Right Products For Your Hair

One of the easiest ways to figure out what products work for you is simply experimenting.

By trying out different products, you can get a sense on if your hair prefers gels, moussses, leave-ins, etc. over creams, leave-in conditioners vs milks, etc.

But this can be both expensive and mentally taxing. Who can keep up with all the new products?

Here are 3 general rules of thumb to consider when trying out products:

• Porosity
  • As the cuticles are tight and flat, low porosity nauturals should avoid products that further flatten the hair
    • Avoid ingredients with coconut oil and proteins.
  • High porosity should look for these ingredients, as the cuticles are very open and need proteins to flatten the cuticles
  • While all naturals prioritize cleanliness, low porosity naturals should take extra care to incorporate clarifying shampoos into their routines as product buildup occurs rapidly in low porosity hair.

• Curl Type/Density/Width
  • The tighter your curl pattern, the more susceptible to breakage. As such, always prioritize moisture by keeping the hair clean, applying products on wet hair and using a hooded dryer to lock in the moisture.
  • Fine-haired naturals should use protein treatments at least once a month to strengthen the hair, as fine hair is prone to breakage. Be very light-handed when applying products to keep the hair from being weighed down.

• Ingredient List
  • Not all formulations are made with quality
  • Natural hair thrives best with products containing water as the first ingredient, followed up with plant-based ingredients
  • Avoid the following ingredients, if possible:
    • Silicones (especially if low porosity)
    • Mineral oil/petroleum (creates a tight barrier around the hair which results in dry hair if not removed with sulfate shampoo)
    • Petroleum
    • Formaldehyde
    • SD Alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propanol

Natural Hair Tools

If a product isn’t working for you, it may not be the product, it may be the tools you’re using (or lack thereof).

These must have tools for natural hair are essential in any natural hair routine – some of them actually work to help your hair absorb the products better. I’m here for that!

Without these tools, not only are you not getting the full benefits of your expensive products, you won’t reach your hair’s full potential as effectively.

The best part? These tools are AFFORDABLE asf (roughly around $5-10), and won’t run out, unlike your products.

They can be used week after week in tandem with your products to make sure you’re getting the most bang for your buck.

Putting It All Together: The Ultimate Natural Hair Routine for Beginners

Simply put, the key to creating a natural hair routine is focusing on simplicity and consistency.

A simple natural hair routine doesn’t have the space for a million products because you use what works.

Consistency is the second piece of the puzzle. Nothing is worth doing if you are not consistent, and this principle also works with natural hair.

Whether we want to see more growth, more moisture or more definition, all we need is a simple routine that we implement consistently, and we’ll be guaranteed to see results.

Here’s the tea on how to take care of natural hair, broken down on a daily, weekly and monthly basis.

Daily

On a day-to-day basis, it’s all about listening to your hair.

Learning how to take care of natural hair daily is a skill that you will refine as you go along on your natural hair journey, so don’t worry if you are new to this and don’t have solid footing yet.

Here are some general tips to guide you on daily maintenance of natural hair.

• Avoid too much manipulation
  • Keep your fingers out of your hair
  • Keep wool sweaters away from the nape of your neck
• Sleep with a satin bonnet or silk pillowcase
• If your hair feels dry, re-moisturize your hair with water, a leave-in and oil, and protect it overnight

Weekly

On a weekly basis, your hair is most likely dry and dirty, and begging for a moisture re-up. Here’s what you should do on a weekly basis:

• Weekly detangling session
• A complete wash day, including deep conditioner
• Scalp massage
• Wash your silks and satins

Monthly

Monthly maintenance of natural hair is all about a reset. We do a lot to our hair on a daily and weekly basis, so it’s important to press the reset button on our curls and give our hair a bit of a break.

On a monthly basis, you should:

• Dust the ends of your hair to remove split ends, if needed
• Protein treatment to strengthen your hair
• Do a scalp detox using a clarifying shampoo (normally contains sulfates) or do a clay mask

Final Thoughts About Natural Hair for Beginners

As black and brown people with curly and coily hair, many of us have been conditioned to resent our features.

We’ve tamed and manipulated our hair in so many different ways to conform. Many of us don’t even fully understand how to take care of it in its natural state.

If nobody has told you yet: your hair is beautiful and valid in whatever state you decide to wear it. This is the first thing you should internalize on your natural hair for beginners journey.

But if you are deciding to go natural, remember that natural hair is a journey, not a race.

This new journey you are about to embark on may seem overwhelming, but with the above guide, you should be able to navigate through with confidence and ease.

Welcome to the wonderful world of natural hair. It will change you.