Low porosity hair can sometimes feel like a struggle.
For those with low-po hair, you know exactly what I’m talking about: the constant dryness, the breakage, and no matter what you do, moisture just sits atop your hair.
This can seem overwhelmingly frustrating considering how much time, effort and money we spend on our hair.
Thankfully, there’s a tried and true low porosity hair routine (based on evidence-based science) that can ensure our curls and coils are happy and healthy.
In other words: having a solid and effective low porosity hair routine is the key to keeping your lo-po hair soft and moisturized.
Let’s dive in.
What Is Natural Hair Porosity?
Hair porosity is our hair’s ability to retain moisture. In essence, it is the ability for our hair cuticles (which are much like the pores on our face) to open up and take in the water we are giving it.
There are, generally speaking, three types of hair porosity: low, medium, and high. And most curls fall into one of these broad categories.
Natural Hair Porosity
Natural hair porosity is the ability of your hair to absorb water and/products.
Low porosity natural hair has a low absorption rate, because the cuticles are stubbornly flat, tight and closed. It is difficult for this hair porosity to absorb moisture.
High porosity natural hair has a high absorption rate, because the cuticles are raised, open and cracked. It is difficult for this hair porosity to retain moisture.
Low porosity hair is when your the cuticles on your hair shaft are tight and flat. The cuticles are so tightly shut that moisture and products have difficulty penetrating into through the cuticles and into the hair.
Translation: low porosity hair is dry AF with high product buildup potential.
On the other hand, the cuticles in high porosity curls are raised (like the shingles of a roof), reducing moisture retention.
Both of these hair porosity types will experience dry hair if not properly moisturized. The trick is to know which hair type you are to manage it.
How To Know If You Have Low Porosity Hair
There are two inexpensive easy tests to do at home that will help you determine if you have low porosity hair.
Pull a strand out of your head and let it float in a cup of warm water. Wait four minutes. If it floats, you have low porosity hair. If it sinks, you have high porosity hair.
Another test is to slide your fingers up the shaft of one strand of hair. Do you feel any prickles or bumps? If yes, you have high porosity – your cuticles are lifted and open. If it’s smooth all the way up, you have low porosity hair.
Or… you can take our hair facts quiz to determine your porosity.
Your New Low Porosity Hair Routine
Low porosity naturals have it rough. On the one hand, our curls are naturally dry because the oils from our scalp, called sebum, cannot travel down our hair shaft.
But to add insult to injury, our hair cuticles are so tightly closed that moisture can’t penetrate it anyways.
This also means that the nourishing (not to mention expensive) products we put into it, like oils, leave-ins, deep conditioners, can’t enter the hair shaft.
Fortunately for us, there are some key steps that you can incorporate into your hair routine to cater to the woes of low porosity hair.
Here are 5 things you must add to your low porosity hair routine for moisturized, healthy curls:
1) A Low-Po Wash Day
Wash day as a low porosity natural looks very different from our high-po counterparts.
Having a proper clarifying shampoo for low porosity natural hair is a non-negotiable for low-po naturals.
To properly moisturize natural hair, your hair must be clean. Moisture cannot penetrate through layers and layers of dirt, grime, and buildup.
Here’s how to properly shampoo natural hair:
- Section your hair in 4 parts and thoroughly wet each section
- Apply a dime sized amount of shampoo into your hands and lather until the shampoo is activated
- Pull the first section down, stretching it, while you apply the shampoo to your scalp. This will keep your hair elongated and tangle-free.
- Once your scalp is thoroughly clean, smooth down some of that shampoo down the length of the section.
- Wash off the shampoo. For best results, shampoo twice to ensure your hair is clean.
Follow up with your favourite conditioner, applying it on wet, sectioned (and freshly shampooed hair). Detangle using a detangling tool of choice.
TGIN Moisture-Rich Sulfate Free Shampoo
Best for TYPE 3-4, low porosity
Best suited for coilier textures, this shampoo will ensure no product is left behind. Best of all, most of the hydrating ingredients (such as amla oil extract and sugar cane), are right up front in the ingredient list, meaning your hair won’t feel stripped after using it. A must-have product.
Redken All Soft Shampoo
Best for TYPE 3 – 4, low porosity
This shampoo is a go-to for many licenced cosmetologists and stylists. It’s salon quality and highly moisturizing, yet it will clarify your hair thoroughly to give a silky press. Double cleanse your hair and scalp, smoothing your strands down as you go, for best results.
Redken All Soft Conditioner
Best for TYPE 3 – 4, low porosity
A little goes a long way with this salon-quality conditioner. It has a thick consistency that’s perfect to detangle dense, tangly curls and coils. It’s also pH balancing to help your cuticles lay flat. Natural hair professionals rave about this conditioner for good reason!
Deep Condition and Chill
Deep conditioning in your low porosity hair routine can be summarized in two words: moisture and heat.
Look for deep conditioners that are full of moisturize-boosting ingredients such as honey. Keep in mind that low porosity naturals are normally protein-sensitive, so opt for protein-free deep conditioners and use a light protein treatment monthly (more on this later).
TGIN Honey Miracle Hair Mask
Best for TYPE 4
One of the most superior ingredient list of any deep conditioner on the market. The plethora of film-forming humectants are incredible for moisturizing natural hair of all porosity. The proteins in this formula are also small enough for even the most protein-sensitive low porosity natural. A must have!
Now, one of the best ways to leverage your porosity as a low-po natural is to use heat or steam to lift your cuticles.
Because of your tight and flat cuticles, deep conditioners have a hard time penetrating into your hair shaft. However, using heat and steam during your deep conditioning session will encourage your curls to uptake the treatment.
Steam, which is vaporized water, can easily penetrate into your hair because of how small the molecules are. Coupled with a deep conditioner, your hair will be able to reap the full benefits of both the water and the treatment.
However, steamers are expensive and bulky. Hot head thermal caps are a great alternative – they harness the heat capacity of flaxseeds to bring the heat to your coils.
Once you’ve applied your deep conditioner and put on your plastic bag, throw the hat into the microwave for 40 seconds on each side. Put the cap on your head for 15-20 minutes, and rinse out the conditioner with cold water.
You’ll find that the deep conditioner penetrated deeper into the hair and you’ll be left with soft, supple hair.
Hot Head Thermal Cap
Best for TYPE 4, low porosity
This is a must have tool for low porosity naturals. Deep conditioning as a low porosity natural is essentially fruitless if you’re not opening up your cuticles to let the product in. And the heat supplied by this product will do just that! A much more effective deep conditioning strategy than the baggy method, and best of all: it’s more affordable and compact than a steamer.
Moisturizing and Styling in Your Low Porosity Hair Routine
Once your hair is thoroughly cleaned and conditioned, it’s primed and ready to accept all the moisture from your stylers.
When moisturizing low-po hair, always start with water. Water = moisture, and it’s nature’s only true hydrator.
On damp hair, section off your hair and apply a generous amount of leave-in conditioner. Keep applying water to make sure the leave-in is fully mobile and melts into the hair.
Follow this up with a styler of choice: gel for wash and go, and mousse for twist-outs/braid-outs. Again, keep adding water to each section to make sure the products are not just sitting on top of your hair.
TGIN Miracle Repairx Protective Leave-in Conditioner
Best for TYPE 3-4
This light-weight formula is perfect for low porosity naturals looking for moisture without the product buildup. It adds definition while replenishing moisture to curls and coils, resulting in soft, supple and defined hair.
Mielle Pomegranate & Honey Leave-in Conditioner
Best for TYPE 4
This light-weight leave-in conditioner is great for low porosity hair struggling with moisture absorption. Key ingredients include babassu oil and sugar cane extract are highly moisturizing will ensure every coil is hydrated for days to come.
Earthtones Naturals Curl Enhancing Jelly
Best for TYPE 3-4
A Canadian-based brand, Earthtones Naturals focuses on holistic, natural ingredients – and this gel is no exception. Its formulated with some ingredients such as aloe leaf juice, panthenol and sea kelp!
Set Your Style
Fully drying your hair using ambient heat is the best way to lock in moisture until the next wash day. This is critical for low porosity hair!
Air drying is okay but for low porosity hair, we want that moisture to stay in your hair until the next wash day. Using a hooded dryer or blow dryer + diffuser will do just that.
Red By Kiss 1875 Watt Ceramic Professional Hood Dryer
Best for all naturals
Turn your home into a salon with this affordable bonnet hair dryer. You can either sit under the dryer while deep conditioning with a plastic cap, or allow your hair to dry after styling. Small enough to conserve space but powerful enough to get the job done.
2) Protective Style
Protective styling is a guaranteed win for all naturals, regardless of porosity type.
Low porosity hair is notoriously dry. So once you moisturize your hair, it is imperative that you keep the moisture in at any cost.
Protective styling is a great way to do that. If properly installed, they can help retain the moisture in your hair and help achieve your natural hair goals.
By putting your hair in a long-wearing style, such as braids, weaves, wigs and buns, you are not only keeping your hair moisturized, but you are also sheltering your hair from the winter elements.
But, before you put your hair in a protective style, be sure to: 1) deep condition, 2) seal in the moisture with a moisturizing leave-in conditioner, and 3) plan to take down your style no later than every 6 weeks.
3) Use Protein Strategically
Our hair is made out of a protein called keratin, a heavily-bonded protein that keeps our curls bouncy and elastic. It’s also abundant in other areas of our bodies such as our skin and nails.
Protein treatments not only work to keep our moisture-protein balance aligned, but they also fill in cracks and holes in the surface of our cuticle layer.
In other words: protein can decrease our porosity levels.
Remember: the cuticles of low porosity hair tends to lay flat. Too much protein will further lower our porosities and make product penetration even harder.
Protein treatments are still necessary to keep our moisture-protein balance in check, so use them sparingly.
Do a protein treatment monthly using a light to medium mask with small sized proteins such as amino acids and peptides, which are small enough to enter the cuticle and fortify your cortex and not cause any adverse impacts.
Mielle Babassu & Mint Deep Conditioner
Best for TYPE 4
One of Mielle’s most popular products, the active ingredient in this mask is babassu seed oil, a significant source of Vitamin E and fatty lipids. The protein source, amino acids, are small enough to enter into your cuticles and fortify your cuticles. The perfect protein treatment for even the most protein-sensitive low porosity naturals.
Aphogee Keratin 2 Minute Reconstructor
Best for TYPE 4
This protein treatment is AMAZING for a protein up-keep, reversing heat damage and healing moisture overload. Your hair will be defined and bouncy immediately after washing it out.
For looser curls and waves – apply in the shower every 3 months for 2 minutes. Only apply where your curls are most pronounced. For Type 3c-4c, use on a monthly basis for 15 minutes.
4) Be Wary of Oils
Studies have concluded that some oils have a high penetration ability, allowing it to fill in gaps and cracks in the cuticle layer. Similar to protein, this can reduce our porosity and decrease product penetrability.
Not a good thing for us low-po naturals!
Prioritize water over oils.
5) Focus On Your Ends
Nothing screams unhealthy low porosity hair like brittle, dry ends.
At every step in your curly hair routine, your ends should be a top priority. This is especially true in the winter, a time when your ends are at its most fragile.
Leave-in conditioners need to be concentrated at your ends first, and then applied to your roots. The same goes with your deep conditioner.
Your ends are your hair’s elders – so treat them with respect!
6) Give Yourself a Scalp Massage
Healthy hair starts at the scalp.
For starters, it’s an efficient way to stimulate follicle activity because it promotes blood flow in your scalp.
Scalp massages are also a great way to loosen dirt buildup. Dirt and grime can latch onto hair follicles, slowing down hair growth. It can also weigh down new growth coming in, resulting in new growth hair loss.
Grab your favourite oil, put on some Netflix, and gently work some of that oil into your scalp using the pads of your fingertips (and not your nails). In a few months, you’ll notice thicker, healthier hair.
7) Vitamins, Exercise and Diet
As much as we hate to admit it, no routine can truly thrive without some sort of lifestyle change.
If you are determined to have long, healthy, moisturized natural hair, you should ensure that your micro (supplements) and macro (food) nutrients support healthy hair.
Did you know that your hair, skin, and nails are the last places in your body to receive nutrients? So, if you aren’t eating right or taking your supplements, your body will prioritize your essential organs first (such as the heart, brain, and lungs).
This is why when you’re deficient in critical nutrients, you will immediately notice it in your hair, skin and nails.
Exercise is another key part of a healthy hair routine, and a healthy physical life. Exercising naturals swear that exercising regularly, in addition to a healthy diet, boosts their hair growth cycle significantly.
Healthy hair starts with a healthy body. If you focus on what you consume just as much as what products you put on your hair, you’ll notice a significant increase in your hair health.
Final Thoughts on Your New Low Porosity Hair Routine
There are many ways to maintain a healthy low porosity hair routine. By deep conditioning, protective styling, exercising, and using the rest of the above tips, you are ensuring that your hair is at optimal conditions for growth.